14.5.12

Geisha!

Entrance to Kyo-Odori (Geisha Performance at Gion Theatre)

A couple weeks ago I was lucky to view a geisha performance at the Gion Theater. Meiko and geiko, apprentice and full geishas respectively, hold public performances only twice a year, in the spring and fall. Lucky for me, my stay in Japan overlaps with the spring performances, so I was able to catch a glimpse into this oft-talked about but little-known world. The audience, mostly comprised of Japanese locals and tourists, even included a couple geisha, who were accompanying what appeared to be important Japanese businessmen.

At the show, I was able to see geishas' perform traditional dances (typically with some sort of prop: umbrella, shawl, fan), play various traditional Japanese instruments (flute, shamisen) and hear them sing. The kimonos were ornately decorated, the set a technical and artsy feat, and the performances entertaining and beautiful. Given the amount of time and care put into a geisha's appearance, from the styled hair to immaculately done makeup, they indeed looked impressive. Geisha's hair is only her own, and yet, I was still shocked to see one geisha with hair longer than her body!

Prior to arriving in Japan, my knowledge of geisha was limited to what I had gleaned from 'Memoirs of a Geisha.' But, even after living in Japan for the past month and a half, my knowledge is roughly the same. I spoke with my host mother about geisha, only to discover that locals also know little about what geishas really do. She did explain that, of their own free will, girls aged 16 or older who decide to enter the profession move into a geisha house for training. After finishing their apprenticeship, they become full-fledged geisha, and entertain only the most elite and well-established businessmen. After retirement they may go on to own their own geisha house or night club, usually sponsored by a past client. However, after these facts, she knew little more, aptly describing Gion (the most well known area for geisha) and geisha as, "a world unknown to those outside of it. Only inhabited by geisha and rich Japanese businessmen, even the Japanese do not understand." 

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